Sunday, July 30, 2000
Francis Bay to Orford Bay
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Exploring
Isolation
We
woke late (again) and finally got under way at about noon. We took advantage of the tide
and headed northwest up the Butte Inlet. We passed the small town of Church House where
the native tribe relocated from the head of the inlet. It was a small town of about 5
houses, a church and a small dock. We slowly made our way around the northern side of
Stuart Island.
As we continued north we noticed that there were no other boats. The water was becoming a
thick milky green color. You couldnt see through it. This was pure glacial runoff.
And it was cold. I found out the hard way. There was a lot of debris in the water from the
logging efforts. Once we sailed through a bunch of bark and sticks and I could hear
something dragging across the bottom of the boat as we slowly made our way through it.
Although the current was in our favor there was virtually no wind.
There
are
no
good
places to anchor in this inlet except for at the head of the
bay another 45 miles away or at a logging camp about half way up.
Finally I started up the
engine to try and make some time. When I put in gear the engine labored. I immediately put
in neutral and noticed a lot of debris behind us. Then I tried reverse
same thing.
So, fortunately Deb brought the snorkel gear I asked for. So, it jumped in the thick,
green, nutrient-rich,
icy
water put on the mask and went down. I could see a long piece of bark
wrapped around the propeller shaft. After the third breath, I got it all loose. Then I
dove down once more to see if the grounding did any noticeable damage. I couldnt see
anything in the murky water, so I climbed back on board and resumed motoring up the inlet.
After a while the inevitable wedding debates began. Deb is great, she knows how important
some things are to me and she lets me do what I need to be happy. Like this trip. Here I
am gone for two months and now I am dragging her to this Godforsaken place and I
cant even tell you why.
We talked for a while then she went below. I thought just how
magnificent this was and how wonderful my life is. Just when I thought it couldnt
get any better, I hear dance music and Deb appears from the cabin with cold bevies in
hand. We danced for a while and I realized the humor in this moment. How out-of-context
can you get? I watched mist form over epic glaciers and slowly swirl in the alpine breeze
as we boogied among the dolphins and eagles.
Soon the destination came into sight and we found ourselves in a small bay with a log tow
and nothing else.
The sun set as the stars burst to life. The milky way splashed across the
sky like white
spray paint. I watched stars twinkle and got that far away feeling. I thought sailing on
these waters made me feel small. I was seeing light that thousands of stars created
thousands of years ago. And that light is traveling in all directions into infinity. It is
the same as it was before my life and it will go on long after. The slight stress I was
feeling about keeping up with this web site and all the other worries about the wedding
and everything just melted away.
How wonderful that I am here at all.
Frank
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